A decade ago, Jamaican dancehall fashion was all about Sizzla dressed head to toe in khaki, Selassie flags, and head wraps and being black and not being into gays. Donna Hope, senior lecturer in reggae studies at the University of the West Indies in Kingston, knows more about these confusing shifts in dancehall fashion than anyone else in the world. She recently wrote a book called Man Vibes: Masculinities in Jamaican Dancehall , which is an in-depth study of the thought processes that govern the behavior of the average fashion-conscious dancehall star. These days dancehall artists and fans are a lot more poised and pay more attention to how they dress. Anything in particular?
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A decade ago, Jamaican dancehall fashion was all about Sizzla dressed head to toe in khaki, Selassie flags, and head wraps and being black and not being into gays.
Donna Hope, senior lecturer in reggae studies at the University of the West Indies in Kingston, knows more about these confusing shifts in dancehall fashion than anyone else in the world.
She recently wrote a book called Man Vibes: Masculinities in Jamaican Dancehall , which is an in-depth study of the thought processes that govern the behavior of the average fashion-conscious dancehall star.
These days dancehall artists and fans are a lot more poised and pay more attention to how they dress. Anything in particular? They make a big fuss about how they do their cornrows, for example, while some have even started fashioning their eyebrows into different patterns and wearing clothing that, not so long ago, would have been considered almost gay.
Pastel pinks and peaches have become very popular, as have wonderfully patterned shirts and pants that are what we call tights—very close fitting to the male body. These are things that traditionally in dancehall have been sort of anathema to how a hardcore male should look. Shoes are often the same color as the shirts, say purple or orange, and this getup is coupled with a lot of intense jewelry.
Body piercings and tattoos are all becoming very popular with men in dancehall. This is far removed from traditional views of how men from working-class backgrounds in Jamaica should look. Where did this glamorous and somewhat effeminate styling come from? It is a more European influence. It has a lot to do with people wanting to look beyond their actual physical location and wanting to prove that we can hold our own on a runway in Europe.
How does the scene settle with seeing its stars with belly-button rings and tight trousers? These potential clashes in dialogue are part of what makes dancehall so special. Dancehall has gained a lot of notoriety in the international arena for its extreme and graphic denunciations of male homosexuality. But at the same time, these new waves of dancehall fashion seem to borrow from the impulses that speak to a gay man.
From the perspective of my own work it is not a clash because it projects the same kind of dualities we find throughout dancehall. It has also led me to question where the Jamaican concept of masculinity is heading. Well, it should be noted that not all people involved in dancehall are dressing this way, but there has been a surge in the number of people who look like this.
Also, male dancers have become a far bigger part of dancehall culture—far bigger than they were a few years ago. Which musicians are leading the charge? This has been the trajectory since the late 90s. He did indeed become colorful and flamboyant, with piercings and intricate hairstyles, but back then hardcore meant dark clothes.
Wearing bright colors was not even up for discussion. Vybz Kartel is a representation of this shift we see now, and it is in part his dress sense that has brought him so much attention and made him so popular.
You mentioned the skin-bleaching issue, and Vybz Kartel is one of the main characters in this debate. I can only assume that for such a racially proud genre, the idea of dancehall stars bleaching their skin is as controversial as effeminate dress, if not more so. The issue of skin bleaching at present is now thrown into the public domain by artists like Vybz Kartel who are lightening their skin and publicly admitting to it and in a sense suggesting it as a good thing to do. Vybz Kartel has been advocating what we call cake soap in Jamaica, a type of soap used especially by poor Jamaicans as a part of laundry.
What does the public have to say about the trend? There have been huge amounts of discussion about this, and it is something I looked at some years ago in my work—the way that men have started this skin bleaching that had previously been seen as something women did. We already knew that women lighten their skin with all sorts of products to hide blemishes and so on.
Then there are other products, like corn meal and curry powder, a condiment added to the skin in a paste form. And when you ask these people why they are doing it, they give the reasons you might expect: Everybody is doing it, it makes them look better, it makes them stand out, and so on. Does this reflect any lessening of the extreme homophobia in the genre?
Dancehall has a preoccupation with what men do, and as a result there are very strong feelings about any act that transgresses what men are supposed to do or what is associated with traditional masculinity. But you may get softened versions of that. Again, remember that this resentment toward transgressors of masculinity does not come from dancehall, but from wider Jamaican culture and traditional feelings of gender codes and culture that were then taken and hardened by dancehall into these harsh lyrics.
Does it translate for non-Jamaicans who listen to this music? The response recently to such lyrics outside Jamaica has resulted in far more subtlety—you would have to understand lyrics of a very contorted and metaphoric nature now to even know that they were discussing male homosexuality. So these rappers are using language to convey things that are not so obvious!
Yes, there has been a change in how these lyrics are used. Now we have a lot of lyrics name-dropping Vybz Kartel, everybody is calling for him, he is the figure people love to hate, and there are also songs about society and the things people want to see happening and so on. It is rare to hear someone talking explicitly about male homosexuality. The extreme and graphic denunciation of homosexuality that we saw so much of in the early 21st century has evaporated.
What are going to be the next big looks, do you think? What I am watching, though, is what Vybz Kartel is doing. He is so locked on transgressing all the codes of polite behavior in Jamaica and being very defiant about it.
I want to see what he will do in the next 12 months. This story is over 5 years old. Mar 1 , am. Photos Courtesy of the Gleaner Company Limited A decade ago, Jamaican dancehall fashion was all about Sizzla dressed head to toe in khaki, Selassie flags, and head wraps and being black and not being into gays. Subscribe to the VICE newsletter.