Now, make sure that you have no parts left you better not find any main shaft bearing needles at this point… and that all bolts are tight. Definitely buy. We Discipline bizarre x-dress put together a budget friendly solution to your driveline vibrations. Secure the diff with the snap ring. Jeep Knowledge. Cherokee slip yoke eliminator is easy compared to kits that include a new output shaft. Hack N Tap Drill Jig - 27 spline Now you can gently pull the complete main shaft out of the transfer case. It is not implied that any part listed is a product of, or approved by, Fiat Chrysler Yokee.
Hard tail fold over pants. Slip Yoke Eliminator
Close Have a minute to review your recent purchases? This also moves your transfer case further away from the rocks and allows you to raise your t-case skid plate if equipped. Installation takes only hours and does not require opening your transfer case. Recently Coed free movie. Difficulty Level: 3. If you are still unsure after looking, please call us. Wow, it's so inexpensive! That means your front and rear driveshafts will be identical! The problem with a typical universal joint is that it rotates at a varying speed. This is true; our hack-n-tap kit retains the stock 27 spline output shaft, however people have been wheeling very successfully on the stock 27 spline output shaft for many years. Your friends may tell you that this Cherokee slip yoke eliminator isn't as strong as a heavy duty slip Cherokee slip yoke eliminator eliminator kit with a new 32 spline output shaft. Does your lifted Cherokee have a vibration during accelerating or when driving at highway speeds? It has always been a dream to own a Wrangler of my own and recently I was able to acquire one of my own! This Naughty america tist vibration and wear due to the constant changes in speed.
Difficulty Level: 3.
- Difficulty Level: 3.
- A Jeep TJ or YJ runs into a massive problem when lift heights increase: the driveshaft slips out of the transfer case.
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Shopping Options. Soft Top Advisor. Show 5 10 15 20 25 50 Sort By Position Name Price. The kit fits all newer production NP transfer cases up. Learn More. Add to Cart. A Lift and bigger tires often put stress on the slip yoke or rear output shaft. Includes everything to modify your transfer case and requires an extended travel drive shaft, which helps to prevent driveline vibration and the rear output shaft from breaking. A must for any lifted Learn More. This kit requires the modification of your stock output shaft.
Drill and tap included for easy installation. Drive flange is machined from Learn More. Drive flange is machined from solid Stainles Learn More. Since the ea Learn More. Our Showroom. Store hours.
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Service 5. If you're lifting your Rubicon, the only bit you'll have to worry about acquiring longer driveshafts appropriate to your lift. Customers Also Bought. To solve this issue, the slip yoke is eliminated with an SYE kit slip yoke eliminator kit. Do you want to add 1" more ground clearance under the belly of your Jeep where you need it most? Wrangler Driveshaft Joints There are two types of joints used on Wrangler's driveshafts , a universal joint also called a Cardan joint and double Cardan joints. Get rid of that clearance robbing t-case drop and having nothing standing in the way of lifting your Jeep as tall as you want to.
Cherokee slip yoke eliminator. Most Popular in Wrangler Slip Yoke Eliminators
Are you on a tight budget? If you answered yes to any of these questions, then once again Iron Rock Off Road has the perfect solution for you: our hack-n-tap slip yoke eliminator kit for your Jeep. We have put together a budget friendly solution to your driveline vibrations. With this kit, we provide a new yoke for your transfer case, mounting hardware, and step by step installation instructions. Installation takes only hours and does not require opening your transfer case.
Your friends may tell you that this solution isn't as strong as a heavy duty slip yoke eliminator kit with a new 32 spline output shaft. This is true; our hack-n-tap kit retains the stock 27 spline output shaft, however people have been wheeling very successfully on the stock 27 spline output shaft for many years.
Of course if you want the the heavy duty version check it out here , but if you want a budget friendly permanent solution click "add to basket" and we'll ship one out to you right away. You know you want one!! Get rid of that clearance robbing t-case drop and having nothing standing in the way of lifting your Jeep as tall as you want to. Why do you need this kit? Allows you to remove your transfer case drop, gaining you 1" of ground clearance or more, right under the belly of the beast where you need it most!
This also moves your transfer case further away from the rocks and allows you to raise your t-case skid plate if equipped. Great for running a lower lift heights to avoid dropping your transfer case. Wow, it's so inexpensive! Great for tall lift kits where a transfer case drop just isn't enough. Installation is easy compared to kits that include a new output shaft. It just plain works great! You can often use another XJ front driveshaft with this yoke!
That means your front and rear driveshafts will be identical! This is typically found on older cases generally pre If you are not sure, please look at the back of your transfer case before ordering. If you are still unsure after looking, please call us. Older style - the seal flange is needed with this style must have 3 hole rear cone. Newer style - seal flange not needed with this style. Definitely buy. Dont hesitate to get the stuff for the hack n tap sye for the j I couldn't be happier easy to do and I'm able to run 2 factory 94 front drive shafts on about 6 6.
Just Do it. I have been struggling with drive line vibration in my 96 XJ j tc was even though I only have the upcountry minor lift. Why is this beneficial, you might ask? A slip yoke eliminator kit shortens your transfer case, which then necessitates a longer driveshaft. A longer driveshaft means you'll have a flatter drivetrain angle, reducing vibrations and wear on drivetrain parts if your Jeep has an agressive lift installed. An SYE also provides a slight increase in ground clearance due to the flatter drivetrain angels.
With a slip yoke eliminator kit, you don't have to run a transfer case drop either. Some manufacturers will provide a standard slip yoke eliminator kit as well as a mega short kit, shortening your transfer case even further. These kits include the back half of the transfer case, a splined shaft for the u-joints to mate too, all of the proper output shaft bearings and seals, as well as a speedometer drive gear. When you lift your Wrangler, you are changing your driveline angles. If these angles are not properly set then your Jeep may suffer from driveline vibrations and possibly wear components faster like the u-joints.
By installing an SYE you convert the slip yoke to a fixed mounting flange which prevents the risk of your driveshaft from falling out and also allows for a CV driveshaft to be installed.
When the slip yoke slides out too far it runs the risk of falling out of your transfer case. This should never happen with a Wrangler that has not been lifted. If this does happen, not only will you lose power to the rear wheels, but the oil in your transfer case will pour out as well.
The reason why CV driveshafts prevent driveline vibrations is they move at a constant velocity unlike a conventional universal joint that constantly accelerates and decelerates as it turns. In addition, CV joints are able to be used at greater angles than u-joints, making them great for lifted vehicles. Realistically, any kind modifications to your Wrangler's suspension can have negative effects on your driveline.
If you are considering installing any suspension lift over 2 inches you should strongly consider installing a SYE and a CV driveshaft. However, you may be able to get away with a transfer case drop for lifts up to 4 inches. Rubicon Wranglers are a little better off in that they already have a type of SYE installed from the factory. If you're lifting your Rubicon, the only bit you'll have to worry about acquiring longer driveshafts appropriate to your lift. Have ordered various items from Extremeterrain and I have to say that I have yet to be disappointed.
As the name implies, the SYE replaces the slip yoke with a mounting flange, making it possible to install a standard-design drive shaft whose slip joint is built into the center segment, while the end segments are tightly bolted down to the transfer case output and axle input shafts, respectively.
If your vehicle is equipped with the NV transfer case, instead, you will find a similiar tech article specifically for that transfer case on Jeepin. The Rubicon Express SYE is a lower-cost kit and contains: a CV or standard yoke flange to be mounted to the OEM transfer case output shaft, and all mounting hardware for the flange and the replacement driveshaft. First of all, your Cherokee needs a new rear drive shaft with the slip joint located in the center element and a CV joint at the transfer case end.
You can either buy a complete replacement drive shaft or have the original shaft modified for the use with the SYE. With regards to tools, besides standard stuff like a socket wrench kit etc. Before starting the actual work, familiarize yourself with the SYE kit and read through the complete instructions below, so you know what to expect.
Total installation time should be about four to six hours excluding the modification of the transfer case main shaft and drive shaft. Secure the vehicle: Park your Jeep on a level surface, engage the parking brake, and block at least two tires.
Remove the rear driveshaft: Unbolt the two metal bands at the axle yoke and discard them the RE kit has replacement parts. Remove the slinger stop spacer and the snap ring from the shaft. Pry out the old seal by gently! Unbolt the clip that secures the speedometer sensor, unplug the cable and slide the sensor unit from the rear bearing retainer. Place a large pan or bucket below the transfer case, remove both Allen screws in the rear of the case, and let the case drain.
Split the transfer case: Remove all bolts from the main case. The bolt to the top left of the oil pump has a point head, for which you need the special M10 point wrench nut mentioned above.
Also note the position of the two bolts with the washers. Instead, have a look at the dowels where the two bolts with washers are located. They have small indentations in which you can safely place a screwdriver to pry the main case open. Slide off the rear half of the case. It is a magnet that is loosely placed in a pocket in the front half of the case. Slide the main shaft out of the transfer case: Even thought the OEM Jeep shop manual says otherwise, you do not have to remove the front drive shaft, yoke, and output shaft to be able to remove the transfer case main shaft!
Remove the large snap ring from the main shaft and pull the drive sprocket towards you. It will move far enough off the main shaft splines to take off the chain from the front shaft sprocket.
Now you can gently pull the complete main shaft out of the transfer case. If you hear some clicking and clacking, that is just the shift sleeves disengaging. The photo above also shows the location of the special bolts: the red circles indicate the positions of the black-headed bolts with the washers, the red arrow points to the dowel for the multi-point head bolt, and the yellow circle points out the pocket for the magnet. Disassemble the main shaft: Remove the snap ring and washer from the shaft and slide the intermediate clutch shaft from the main shaft.
Remove the differential snap ring from the shaft and gently take off the differential. Be prepared to see a heap of bearing needles fall from the differential bearing!
Remove both needle bearing thrust washers and any needles that may still stick to the shaft. Clean the shaft and have it cut, drilled, and tapped as per the instructions that come with the RE SYE kit.
As you can see from the photo below, the machine shop did an outstanding job: a polished, perfectly perpendicular contact surface for the SYE flange and perfectly aligned thread. The left half of the photo illustrates the hardened surface of the shaft: you can easily see the difference between the soft, rough-surfaced center and the hardened, very smoothly-cut outer area.
Wipe down each bearing needle with a cloth and gently push it onto the main shaft. Thanks to the petroleum jelly, the needles will stick to the shaft. Note that the needles will cover the whole bearing surface; you actually have to squeeze in the final needle.
After completing this chore, lay the other bearing thrust washer on top of the needles and very carefully place the differential on the shaft and bearing, making sure not to displace any of the needles. Secure the diff with the snap ring.
Slide on the intermediate clutch shaft; the shorter splines must point to the diff as seen in the photo. Re-install the washer and snap ring. Re-install the main shaft in the transfer case: Gently slide the main shaft into the case. Slowly rotate the shaft until it engages with the low range gears and the shift sleeves, and push the shaft all the way in. Place the drive sprocket loosely on the main shaft. Position the drive chain on both sprockets and push the drive sprocket onto the splines on the main shaft.
Reinstall the sprocket snap ring. Place the magnet in the pocket in the front case half. Make sure that the oil pick-up screen is safely seated in the case slot. Check that the splines on the main shaft properly engage with the splines in the oil pump. Install the bolts, noting the position of the two bolts with the washers and the multi-point bolt check photo above. Tighten all bolts to 41Nm 30 ft-lbs. Tighten the four bolts to 25Nm 18 ft-lbs. Install the rear bearing I.
The seal will now smoothly slide onto the output shaft, and you can gently hammer the seal into place until it sits squarely in the bearing retainer. Install the final snap ring what a relief, huh?! Before installing the speedometer sensor unit in the rear bearing retainer, have a look at the gear in the unit: there is a number molded into the plastic gear.
Match this number with the numbers on the sensor unit and align the number on the unit with the dot on the bearing retainer when positioning the sensor unit in the retainer. Position the clamp in the grooves on the sensor unit and bolt it down. This ensures that the teeth on the sensor gear fully engage with the teeth on the main shaft. If the speedo does not work properly after the installation of the SYE, the most probable cause is a mis-aligned speedometer sensor gear.
When checking the area around the SYE flange for clearance, I noticed that the mounting bracket for the oxygen sensor was a bit too close to the CV joint. Therefore, I cut off a bit as shown below and drilled a new hole to move the connector a bit further away from the CV joint.
Bolt the drive shaft to the threaded RE SYE flange using the four bolts supplied and use the lock nuts to secure the bolts in the flange. The angle of the yoke at the rear axle should be within three degrees when the truck squarely sits on its four wheels. If the angle is more than three degrees, use degree shims between the axle and spring packs to bring the pinion yoke up or down as necessary.
Fill the transfer case and perform the final check: Install the lower Allen bolt in the rear half of the transfer case. Thank you, Mel Wade , for pointing out to me that I had forgotten this crucial step in the original instructions. If everything looks O.
What else do you need? Remove the rear bearing inner diameter snap ring. At this point, a corner of your garage may look something like this: Clean the shaft and have it cut, drilled, and tapped as per the instructions that come with the RE SYE kit. Mount the drive shaft to the axle input yoke. Now, make sure that you have no parts left you better not find any main shaft bearing needles at this point… and that all bolts are tight.
Check the drive shaft for sufficient travel in the slip joint and the transfer case for leaks. Reuse is governed by a Creative Commons license.